| Ref: Sean Dougherty's Selected Alpine Climbs. |
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Approaching the
ascent gully. |
| Alpine Climb: Awesome challenging climb with our
buddy
Val. We left early and made good time on the
approach from the Emerald Lake side. Progress up the snow gully was
slowed
when it came time to climb on the rock above, climber's right. Val led
a 5th
class pitch and set an anchor (some pitons exist). We hiked until the
terrain becomes solid bedrock that resembles many
staggered rows of small steps. We
aimed for the toe of the glacier. Once on the glacier the travelling
was
fast and even faster when the weather started to move in. At the col,
the summit was barely visible, we set off quickly and soon reached
the top. It was too bad the view was obscured but we still hung out
a little to enjoy the feat. We even got buzzed by a hummingbird while
sitting at the cairn! Attempting The Vice at this point seemed
irrational. The way down was nice and the atmosphere was
light; that is until I started down the rock steps on the bedrock. The
steepness and
length of the slope got to me and I froze. Fab, ahead of me, had to
calm me down and tell me where to place my feet. I was hyperventilating
and holding back tears. Val was at the bottom having a smoke,
enjoying the comedy! I eventually made it
down without a scuff and truly embraced rappelling back down to the
snow gully. |
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Another look at the
gully. |
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The 5th class pitch,
this picture was taken coming down. |
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Looking down the
glacier from the col. |
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Summit ahead
somewhere in the fog. |
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At the top with
little visibility but great company! |
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