Joffre, Mount

elevation: 3,449 m. height gain: 1,725 m.
area: Kananaskis,AB map 82 J/11
1995-Sept-06


Ref: Sean Dougherty's Selected Alpine Climbs. gravel flats
Mount Joffre from the gravel flats.
Alpine climb: Amazing, incredible, memorable trip. Wess, Dan and I bivied at Aster Lake. Another solo hiker camped nearby. We were awakened during the night by some screaming and yelping. Thinking someone was being attacked by a bear, we quickly got up, put on our helmets and armed ourselves with our alpine axes and flares. My heart was thumping, blood was rushing, my thoughts were blurred; these very intense feelings were interrupted by laughter. We found out the following day that a bunch of teens had hiked around the lake in the dark. These kids went through our stashed camp stuff while we set off for Joffre and stole headlamps and flares. Victims of theft all the way out here... unbelievable... Anyway, the hike to the glacier was long. Once on the glacier, the north face reveals itself. From close, the grade isn't as impressive. Climbing under blue-sky definitely added a nice touch and a sense of safety. At the top, the view was stunning, as you would expect it to be from this very lofty mountain. I couldn't believe I was standing on the summit of Joffre; me, little Jo. That moment was the highlight of the day; we had to return to the car from here. The hike back was very long. I remember the last trudge around the lake, it was absolutely brutal. To this day, I have never experienced such fatigue and pain. I suffered inflammation in my knees and eventually my hips. Joffre marked my seventh scramble in eight days (one day of approach). best view of joffre
The best view of Joffre is from Mount Cordonnier.
visible up-track
An up-track is visible on the north glacier (picture taken in 2011).
water defies gravity
Waterfall below the glacier.
roping up
Stepping onto the glacier, the north face appears very steep.
north face
A closer look at the summit plod.
almost there
Right on buddies, we're there!
at the top
South-east view and Mount Abruzzi, right of center.
summit view
Looking south-west towards Limestone Lakes.
our ascent
Looking down on the approach.
coming down
On the way down the steep bit.
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