| Ref: Mount Begbie summit trail, BC
Ministry of
Forests, Columbia Forest District |
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Mount Begbie from
the Trans-Canada Highway. |
Alpine climb: RT 6.5; 4.0 up
(from campsite). Mount Begbie is one of the best alpine climbs we've
ever
done. The stars lined up for this exceptional weekend granting us
amazing weather, a stunning mountain and great company. We met our
friends Val and Yui in Revelstoke. Just before noon, we left the
trailhead. Val's good friend and fellow climber Chris came along. The
heat was upon us. With heavy packs, we hiked the 1,300-meter elevation
gain to the
campsite very slowly. The slower pace allowed us to converse and keep
hydrated. After 4.5 hours, we set-up and enjoyed the rest of the day.
Early evening, clouds thickened and darkened. The forecasted
thunderstorms were skirting us. We viewed spectacular colors and
textures in the sky; enthralled, it was a picture-taking frenzy! In the
meantime, the storm was brewing behind us. It hit us suddenly sending
us to our shelters for the night. The wind picked up and rain started
coming down hard. We were in the midst of an electrical storm. Fab and
I lay down under our tarp and watched the sky light-up several times.
One strike was particularly close; it blinded me a few seconds and
rattled the ground. Soon after, we noticed two small forest
fires
across the valley. I couldn't sleep, I was worried the strings and
rocks holding the tarp would let go. Suddenly, the storm
passed.
I
woke up before 6AM with sunrays beaming on our camp. Soon everybody was
up, in good spirits. We were peering over Revy, having a cup
of hot chocolate, when BJ appeared unexpectedly. He
had left the parking at 4:30 to join us. Having BJ on this trip was
comforting; not only is he an experienced climber, he is familiar with
the route. We quickly reached the glacier, which leads to the famous
Begbie Ledge. It was apparent a rope would be required for the initial
narrow section (bolted). After an assisted leap across the moat (thanks
BJ), we geared up while Chris and BJ set up an anchor ahead. The
rest of us followed, on belay. Thereafter, BJ ran the rope to the
second
and last anchor, from which he belayed the group past Chris and onto
safer ground.
From there the ledge is wider and we stowed the rope. I was nervous but
mostly ecstatic to be here, able to enjoy it, feeling like I'm
in
good hands. We continued to the end of the ledge and started climbing
on the blocky ridge. The route up is well indicated by cairns and
offers sustained, delightful scrambling, which is not very
difficult. Fab and I are not used to climbs of this nature, what a
treat! At the top, we signed the register, took pictures and hung out.
I was excited, it wasn't over, we still had the thrilling descent.
Coming down the ridge was easier than I thought. We reached the ledge
and agreed to rappel from the anchor to the glacier below. As I lowered
my bum over the edge, my heart was thumping. This is a long one, whoa.
Finally back on the snow, I started to unwind. We hiked back to camp
feeling happy and satisfied with the accomplishment. I was thankful for
this opportunity. At camp, it rained 5 minutes while we packed our
stuff. We casually made our way down the mountain to some delicious
pizza at Chris'. Thank you for hosting such a wonderful weekend!
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Heading up the long
and steep trail. |
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Relaxing at the
campsite. |
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A storm is
brewing over Revelstoke. |
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The northern sky
beyond Mount MacPherson is incredible. |
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Getting ready the
following morning. |
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Leaving the campsite
under blue sky. |
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Mount Begbie comes
into view, the "ledge" is obvious. |
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Moving onto the
glacier. |
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Approaching the
ascent ledge. |
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Looking back towards
the town of Revelstoke. |
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BJ is assisting us
over the moat. |
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Once on the ledge,
we put away crampons and axes. |
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BJ prompts us to the
anchor. |
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At the anchor, BJ
runs the rope to the second and last anchor. |
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This section is airy. |
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The group following
behind on the narrow ledge. |
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On safer ground, I
wait for the group to join me. |
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From here, the ledge
is wide enough to walk along. |
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Walking along the
ledge. |
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Gaining the north
ridge on solid rock. |
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Yui scrambles
through typical terrain. |
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Amazing view down
the ridge. |
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A nice break on a
flat, grassy area before the summit.
Yui, Val, BJ, Chris and Fab (left to right). |
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Heading to the top. |
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Mount English behind
Mount Tilley, west of Mount Begbie. |
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The ascent ridge
from the top. |
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Signing the register. |
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Blanket Glacier. |
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Back down the same
way. |
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One last look at
this superb ridge. |
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Back on the ledge. |
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I'm rappelling down
to the glacier. |
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Watermelon algae,
smell it! |
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